To mark his ten years as the men’s style director at Lanvin, Lucas Ossendrijver has chosen to go beyond a mere retrospective and look to the very heart of his craft: the garment itself. Heavy basting stitches, shirts printed in faux patchwork and overdyed by hand, jacket sleeves constructed inside out with interior seams in thick cotton thread, hidden belts, a fur coat decorated with metal rings and leather strip.
This season, the notion of surprise adds a further sense of poetry to the clothes, bringing a sense of difference, the personality that sublimes the underlying character. A delicate thread hanging from a sleeve, the movement of a slightly wide plaited bracelet on a wrist, the structure of a long scarf with a fringe formed by hanging ribbons.
Here are my favourite looks from their Paris show earlier this week:
These unexpected details add up to take a silhouette to a further level, and to create a series of unusual experiments in textiles, highlighted by the central idea of craftsmanship, symbolized this season by the symbol of a tool itself, whether a saw or a key, presented as accessories (pendants, keyrings) or printed on knits.
